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Thursday, December 3, 2009

Cloud Mist - Zhong Guo Cha

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. We had lots of time visiting family. Over two days we visited three houses and saw more than 30 relatives. My kids had a ball playing with their cousins and with the children of my cousins. On my mom's side there are 13 grandchildren and we were a tight-knit bunch. It's fantastic having my kids get to know them and their kids. Right now there's a 4 1/2 year old (mine), a nearly 4 year old, a nearly 3 year old (mine), a nearly 2 year old, and a 1 year old...and another on the way (not mine.)

I have been wanting to get back to tea reviews but hadn't been feeling very organized. It takes some time to do one well and I've been feeling a bit stretched in all directions. I know you can all relate. (It doesn't help that my son told me that he uses magic to make the house messier every time I turn around. I knew it had to be something like that.) I am in awe of and inspired by the many of you who are able to write frequently...coherently...and inspirationally on a regular basis. I admire you. BUT, I should have a link to another article of mine to share soon. (I hope. Fingers crossed. I never REALLY believe something is going to run until I see it in print. Not a tea one, but one I'm very happy to have the opportunity to write. Spreading my wings a bit.) And, today, I wish to write about one of my new FAVORITE teas.

I don't say "favorite tea" very often. And there is never just ONE. But, Zhong Guo Cha's Cloud Mist (Yun Wu Lu Cha, G-5-3-2) one is certainly high in the ranks. This Chinese green tea has been haunting me. I tried it for the first time as part of the afternoon tea I attended at Savvy Tea Gourmet in Madison, CT. The owner, Phil Parda, included this tea as one of the six we sampled and I absolutely could not get it out of my head. It seemed criminal to only have one infusion from those marvelous leaves, but in that environment, it was simply all that was possible. I knew I had to bring some home to do full justice to this tea.

The dry leaf is dark green, very thin, and wiry. It feels absolutely silky to the touch. The scent is quite subtle, a bit reminiscent of swiss chard. I infused 1 1/2 tsp of the tea in 6 ounces of 165 degree water for 1 minute, 45 seconds. I examined the wet leaf and was struck by the color. Suddenly the leaves mimicked the color of manzanilla olives. They were already opening and the tiny delicate leaves were beautiful. These leaves were incredibly fragrant - asparagus dominated. The liquor itself was a pale green/yellow and had the aromas of asparagus and seaweed.
Infusion 1: (1:45) It was very smooth and light. The flavors were very similar to the scent - asparagus with a touch of marine notes.
Infusion 2: (1:45) The flavor turned a bit more toward spinach, with a touch of honey sweetness. There was not even a hint of bitterness to this brew. Impossibly smooth.
Infusion 3: (1:15) Much more complex. Not as clear a flavor comparison as the first two infusions. It was slightly drying in the mouth. I noticed a slightly buttery texture like a Chardonnay, but it wasn't that same viscousness I associate with that wine.
Infusion 4: (1:15) The flavor was definitely weakening here. The infusion was very pale in color. I continued to pick up some of the buttery notes, but felt that the oceanic flavors were a bit more dominant.

I am very anxious to try this tea brewed in a gaiwan. I am always struck with how differently a tea can taste when brewed with various techniques. A tea that seemed "blah" to me can absolutely sparkle with gong fu brewing techniques. Other times I crave the simplicity of the "throw it in a teapot with some boiling water" style of brewing. It can feel cozy and homey and fight off the winter chill. This is why I rarely give up on a tea before I've brewed it three or four times.

Have a great day everyone. Happy December!

(I'll have a very brief post going out in a few minutes looking for some information. Put on your thinking caps!)

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